Thursday, 26 June 2014

Annabel Toddler Dress 2-3 years



 


To fit age 2-3 years

Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.

Materials:
4.5mm hook
1-2 skeins worsted weight (aran/10ply) yarn (I used Stylecraft Special Aran)
Approx 6 yards yarn in red and white, or other colours of your choosing
I small button for the flower
2 small buttons for the back closure
A few beads for embellishment (make sure these are fixed on securely!  They are a choking risk for tiny children)

Abbreviations:
Dc = double crochet                                       Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet                             Hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
Beg = beginning                                              Ch = chain
Sl st = slip stitch                                             Sk = skip





Pattern

Using 4.5mm hook, work a double crochet foundation chain of 70; alternatively, chain 72, dc in 3rd chain from hook, and to end.  Join, being careful not to twist, to form a circle.  Work 3 rows of double crochet in total.

Next row:  Ch1, 2 sc in every stitch around, sl st to beg ch1.

Next Row:  Ch 3, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next stitch; (sk 2 sts, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in next) to end.  Sl st to beg ch3

Next Row:  Slip stitch into the 1st “V” space (the ch1 space between dcs), (ch3, dc, ch1, 2dc) all in the same space.  Work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) into the middle of every “V” you made in the previous row, in the ch1 space.  Repeat to the end.  Sl st to beg ch 3.

Repeat the last row 2 more times (3 “V” rows in total).

Fold the piece in half with the starting point at the centre back.  Measure 3.5” down from the shoulder on each side.  You should have 3 “V”s within that 3.5”.  In the 4th V from the shoulder at the armhole, place a marker.  Place a marker at the exact same place on the other side.  These will mark where you will start the body of the dress.

Markers should be 3.5”-4” down from each shoulder and 10-11” apart width-wise, on the edge of the bottom of the yoke.  Repeat for the back of the yoke.


Now that you have your markers in place, 2 at the front of the work and 2 at the back, at the exact same places, continue working in “V”s to first marker, skip the stitches between the 1st and 2nd marker (this will create the armhole), carry on working in “V”s as before, until you come to the 3rd marker.  Skip all stitches between the 3rd and 4th marker (this will create your second armhole), and continue in “V”s to the end.  Sl st to beg ch 3.

Now continue working in rounds, in the “V” stitch pattern, until the work measures 16” from the shoulder.

Next Row:  Sl st to the middle space of the next “V” as before, ch 3, 4dc into same space, *5dc into next ch1 space (centre of the next “V”)*, rep from * to * to end.  Sl stitch to beg ch3, fasten off and tidy up ends.


Go back to the Neckline:

This time, working from the yoke upwards, on the inside of the centre back, attach yarn to the centre back, ch 2, 1hdc in next st and each st around.  Do not join.  Chain 5 and turn.

Next Row (now working from the outside), hdc in 3rd ch from hook, then hdc all around neckline, this time working hdc2tog in every 6th stitch, until you reach the last few stitches, then hdc straight to the end.  Turn.

Ch 2, hdc all around, decreasing with hdc2tog every 6th stitch, hdc in last st, turn, for the next 2 rows.
Next Row:  Ch 3, dc in next st, sk 1 st, 5dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st, sk 1, 5dc in next st, *sk 1, sc in next st, sk 1, 5dc in next st*; rep from * to * to end, working 1dc in the last stitch.  Fasten off and tidy up ends, making sure the button flap at the back sits nicely where it meets the yoke.

Sew on 2 buttons on the other side of the back, so that the flap can be used as a button border (the hdc sts will work as buttonholes).




Sleeves:

Attach yarn to bottom centre of the armhole, ch3, dc, ch1, dc, all into the same space.  Working in the “V”s you made previously, work 3 rows of “V”s into the ch1 spaces, as before.

Next row:  Sl st to centre of next “V”, ch 3, 4dc in same space, *1sc in next “V”, 5dc in next “V”*, repeat from * to * around, making a total of 5 ”V”s and 5sc.  Sl st to beg ch 3, fasten off.

Repeat for other sleeve.

Flower: 

With first colour, Make a magic ring, 10 sc into ring, fasten off.  With second colour, attach yarn to any sc from previous row, *work (1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc) into the same stitch*, sk 1 st, rep from * to * to end (5 petals), sl st to beg sc to finish.  Fasten off, tidy up ends, and attach the flower to the front of the yoke, with a button or bead in the centre.

Tie braid:

Using approx. 4 yards of 2 colours together, take your trusty 4.5mm hook and work 140 chain.  (if this doesn’t work for you, just make more or less chain as you need to before cutting the yarn).  (Leave long ends).

Thread the tie through the last hdc row of the  yoke.  If you are going to attach beads, thread them onto the tails of the tie, then knot the ends firmly a few times to build up the knot, so that those pesky beads have no chance of coming off the tie.  These *must* be secure with small children.  Or leave them out.  Whatever you feel is safer. 

One more step – this is optional, but I like this dress with a pleat at the front.  To achieve this, simply draw the ribs together in the centre front, and neatly sew them together for a couple of inches so that they sit nicely at the front of the dress. 

Make sure all your ends are tidied up, and your dress is done!




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