A classic baby cardigan with or without sleeves, with or without a pocket - the choice is yours!
Cross Stitch Cardigan
Size: 6-12 months
Materials: 2 skeins Worsted weight yarn, (aran/10ply); 5mm hook; 4 large buttons.
Gauge: 6sts and 4 rows = 2” on dc
Special Stitch: Cross-stitch double crochet cluster (x-st cluster)
After you ch3 for the beginning of the row, work a set of 2 dc in the following manner: skip one space, yo, insert the hook into the next space, and work a normal dc into that space. Come back and work the next dc in the space you just skipped. When you have inserted the hook and pulled up the first loop, pull the loop up to cross over the first dc you did, so that both dc’s are the same height. Finish the stitch as normal. Skip the next space. Work a dc into the next space, and then come back again to the space you just skipped, working the second dc into that space. Repeat this to the end of the row.
If you need a tutorial, you will find more information, with pictures, at the end of this pattern.
Sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet; ch = chain; sk = skip; sp = space; st = stitch; yo = yarn over; sl st = slip stitch; fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; rep = repeat; beg = beginning; prev = previous
With 5mm hook, chain 43
Row One: Hdc into 3rd chain from hook and to end (42). Turn
(You can also, optionally, work the last two rows as a hdc foundation chain of 42)
Row Two: Ch 3, 6dc, 3dc in next, 7 dc, 3dc in next, 10 dc, 3dc in next, 7dc, 3dc in next, 6dc, 1dc into top of ch2 from prev row. Turn (50)
Row Three: Ch3, 7dc, 3dc in next, 9dc, 3dc in next, 12 dc, 3dc in next, 9dc, 3dc in next, 7dc, 1dc in top of ch3 from prev row. Turn (58)
Row Four: Ch3, 8dc, 3dc in next, 11dc, 3dc in next, 14dc, 3dc in next, 11dc, 3dc in next, 8dc, 1dc in top of ch3 from prev row. Turn (66)
Row Five: Ch3, 9dc, 3dc in next, 13dc, 3dc in next, 16dc, 3dc in next, 13dc, 3dc in next, 9dc, 1dc into top of ch3, turn (74)
Row Six: Ch3, 10dc, 3dc in next, 15dc, 3dc in next, 18dc, 3dc in next, 15dc, 3dc in next, 10dc, 1dc in top of ch3, turn (82)
Row Seven: Ch3, 11dc, 3dc in next, 17dc, 3 dc in next, 20dc, 3 dc in next, 17dc, 3dc in next, 11dc, 1dc in top of ch3, turn (90)
Row Eight: Ch3, 12 dc, 3dc in next, 19dc, 3dc in next, 22dc, 3dc in next, 19dc, 3dc in next, 12dc, 1dc in top of ch3, turn (98)
Row Nine: Ch3, 13dc, 3dc in next, 21dc, 3dc in next, 24dc, 3dc in next, 21dc, 3dc in next, 13dc, 1dc in top of ch3, turn (106)
Row Ten: Ch 3, sk 1st sp, work 8 dc x-stitch (as in Special Stitch above) clusters, sk next 23 sts, work 14 more x-st clusters, sk next 23 sts, work 8 more x-st clusters, 1dc in top of ch3 from prev row.
Row Eleven: Ch3, sk 1 st, work x-st clusters to end of row, 1dc in top of ch3 from prev row. (30 x-st clusters, ch3 and 1dc)
Repeat Row Eleven until work measures 9” from back of neck.
Next Row: ch 3, dc in every stitch across, 1dc in top of ch3 from prev row, turn (62)
Next Row: ch3, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st*; rep from * to * to end of row, 1dc in ch3 from prev row.
Next Row: Repeat previous row.
Traditionally, if the jacket is for a boy, make the right side the button border, if for a girl, make the right side the buttonhole border.
Ch1, turn the corner, and sc evenly up the right front side, turn at the top, ch 1, and work 2 more rows of sc. Fasten off.
For a boy, attach yarn at top corner of left front(for a girl, work buttonhole border on right front edge instead), ch1, work 1 row of sc down evenly down the side. Turn.
Ch1, sc in same, sc in next, ch2, sk2, sc 5, ch2, sk2, sc5, ch2, sk2, sc5, ch2, sk2, sc to end, turn.
Ch1, sc down side again, this time working 2sc into ch2 loops you made for buttonholes. Fasten off.
So far so good – we now have this:
Do you want sleeves, or no sleeves? If no sleeves, then attach the yarn at the bottom of the armhole, ch 1 and work 1 row of sc all around, sl st to beg sc, fasten off. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Alternatively, you could simply leave them as they are at this point.
If you want sleeves, you need to now join the yarn underneath the armholes and work as follows:
Ch3, work the second stitch of a x-stitch cluster into the space *before* the ch3 you just made, finish that off as you would a normal cluster and move on from there. Sk 1 space, and work another x-stitch cluster, repeat all around the armhole, sl st to beginning cluster. (14 x-st clusters)
Ch3, work a second part of a cluster in the space before the ch 3, as before, and work x-st clusters all around, sl st to beg cluster
Repeat until the sleeve measures 5” at the underarm.
Next Row: ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to beg ch3
Next Row: ch3, *fpdc in next, bpdc in next*; rep from * to * to end, sl st to beg ch3.
Repeat the previous row, fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve.
Attach yarn to top of right front, at the inside of the sc border. Here:
Ch3, dc around neckline, working 2dc in every 6th space, to last 5 sts, 1dc in each of the 5, turn
Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4, 2dc in next, *dc 6, 2dc in next* repeat to last 6 sts, dc 6 (last dc goes into the top of the ch3 from the prev row. Turn.
Ch 3, dc in same st, dc 5, 2dc in next, *dc 7, 2dc in next* repeat to last 7 sts, dc to end, last dc goes into top of ch3 from prev row.
If you wish to make a simple little pocket, (either side, or both sides) place markers either side of 5 x-stitch clusters, in the second cluster row up from the ribbing.
Ch13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and to end. turn
Ch3, work 5 x-st clusters, 1dc in ch1 from prev row.
Repeat this row 2 more times, turn
Ch1, sc across for 2 rows.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the pocket on to the jacket in between the two markers you set, try to make sure the x-st rows on the pocket line up with the x-st rows on the jacket.
Tidy up your ends, sew on your buttons, and your cardigan is complete!
©AG Handmades 2014
From crochet.about.com - How To Do The Crossed DC With Step-By-Step Photos by Sandi Marshall
Following are instructions, with step-by-step photos, to learn how to make the crossed dc stitch.
Abbreviations: crdc = crossed double crochet, dc = double crochet
Step 1: The crossed dc is worked over an area of two stitches. To begin, skip the next stitch. The photo below shows the yarn over the hook, with the hook ready to begin making a double crochet in the following stitch.
Step 3: Making a double crochet in the stitch that was skipped: The photo shows that double crochet in progress. There are several ways to begin the double crochet in the skipped stitch. This photo shows the method of crossing the hook in front of the dc just made and, with the working yarn strand in the back, pull the strand through the skipped stitch and pull it to the left of the dc-just-made, so that the first part of the dc being made in the skipped stitch wraps across the post of the dc-just-made (as shown in the photo). Next, yarn over the hook, pull yarn through two loops, yarn over hook again and pull through the last two loops to complete the dc.