Wednesday, 30 July 2014

Oh So Easy Modular Crew Jumper



To fit ages 12-18 months (Worsted Weight yarn); 3-6 months (Light Worsted Weight Yarn)


A very simple sweater that is made in modular style - 4 rectangular pieces, with only slight shaping at the front neckline.  Using only single crochet, half double crochet and a little front post crochet on the rib (can be substituted with hdc if necessary), this sweater can be made by most crocheters.



The pattern includes 2 sizes, and also a conversion chart from US to UK terminology.

The neckline is wide, for an easy-on fit, and buttons can be sewn onto the back neckline rib to enable the shoulders to be fastened more snugly if desired.

Made with Acrylic yarn, this sweater is easy to put on and take off, and easily laundered.  A definite "go to" to keep in the little ones' wardrobe.

This, along with the Oh So Easy Tunic Sweater is part of the "Modular" range, using the most basic shapes.



Oh So Easy Crew Jumper
 

Materials

For the 12-18 months, 1 skein of each colour (Colour A), and (Colour B) or 2 skeins of a single colour in worsted weight yarn (aran/10ply); 5mm hook; yarn needle

For the 3-6 months, 1.5 skeins light worsted weight yarn (DK/8ply); 4.5mm hook; yarn needle

To fit  12-18 months;  Size:  Chest 20”-22”; Length from shoulder 14

To fit 3-6 months; Chest 18”-20”; Length from shoulder 11”-12”

**For both sizes, follow the same pattern but use the smaller hook for the smaller size.  The only place the pattern changes is at the ribbing, where hdc is used instead of dc in the smaller size.**

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; sc2tog = single crochet 2 together; fpdc = front post double crochet

I used two colours for 6-12 months, you don’t have to – if it is easier, just do it in one solid colour.

Main body parts: Both identical, A & B


 
 

 

Back and sleeve long section: C


 



Pattern:


For the main parts of the tunic/sweater (A & B) you will be working side to side.  It’s easier to do striping this way, as you only have to hold one colour at a time.

Parts A & B: (work both the same).

Row 1:  In Colour B, Foundation half double crochet 19 sts.  Alternatively, chain 20 sts, hdc into the third chain from the hook, and to the end.  Turn.  I usually use a foundation chain when working side to side and it gives a more elastic edge and doesn’t pull on one side.  If you work a normal chain, you might want to go up a hook size for making the chain, then go back to a 5mm for the hdc.

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in next st and each st across (19).  Change to Colour A.

Each row from here to the end of the piece will be the same as Row 2, except for colour changes, which are as follows:

Rows 3,4 and 5:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 6 and 7:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 8 and 9:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 10, 11, 12:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 13, 14, 15:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 16, 17, 18:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 19, 20, 21:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 22, 23: As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 24, 25:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 26, 27, 28:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 29, 30:  As Row 2; Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part C:

Row 1:  Using Colour B, Foundation hdc 66. Alternatively, chain 67, hdc in third ch from hook, hdc to end (66).  Change to Colour A

Row 2: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 3 and 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 5, 6, 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Rows 9, 10, 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 12 and 13:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part D:

Row 1:  In Colour B, foundation hdc 66 sts.  Alternatively chain 67, hdc in the third chain from hook, and to end.  Change to Colour A.  Turn. (66)

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B.

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc to end

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A.

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 9:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 10:  Ch2 hdc in next 29 sts, turn.

Row 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 12:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Row 13:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Second half of neckline:

Row 16: With Wrong Side facing, join Colour A to sleeve edge.  Ch2, hdc until 4 sts remain at centre.  Turn.

Row 17:  ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 18:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog.  Turn.

Row 19:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end,  Turn. Change to Colour A

Row 20:  Ch2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, Change to Colour B

Row 21:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Fasten off.


Now is a good time to work a row of single crochet along the raw edges of the sleeves, and around the neckline on Part D.  When doing so, ch1 at right top edge, sc down the side sc2tog at the corner where it meets the front edge, sc along the front edge, sc2tog where it meets the side again, sc up to the top of the neck opening.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


You will now have 4 pieces. 

Assembly:

Fold Part C in half width-wise to find the centre point.  Place a stitch marker.  Fold Part A together lengthwise to find the centre point.  Match this with the centre point of Part C.  You should now have a T-shape. 

Working with RS facing together, whip stitch Parts A and C together, as neatly as you can, using only the back loops of each end stitch.  Match stitch for stitch to keep it all nice and even.

Fold Part B in half to find the mid point, place a marker.  Arrange Part D on top of this, so that the centre of Part D lines up with the centre of Part B.  Again, with right sides facing each other, whip stich along the edges to join Part B to the bottom edges of Part D.  You should now have another T-shape, with the neckline shaping in the centre.

Working again with Right Sides facing, place one T-shape on top of the other T-shape, hold in place with stitch markers if you need to, and whip stitch along the bottom edges of the sleeves.

Whip stitch along the top edges of the sleeves, joining it to the back section “C”, but this time, leave 1” unstitched on either side of neck shaping.

Your garment should now look like this:


Side Seams:  Whip stitch the side seams together, from the armhole to the bottom.  Fasten off.
Turn the garment so that the right side is now on the outside as it should be.

Edging and Sleeve Cuffs:

Bottom Edging:  With Colour B, attach yarn to side seam, Ch2, hdc around, sl st to beg ch2.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc in next, hdc in next*, repeat around, sl st to beg Ch3.

Next Row:  Repeat previous row.  Fasten off.

Sleeve edges:  If you didn’t do so before, ch1 and work a row of sc around the sleeve edge.

Next Row:  Ch2, hdc around, working hdc2tog in every 5th stitch.  Sl st to beg ch2.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc in next, hdc in next*; repeat around, sl st to beg Ch3.

Next Row:  Repeat Previous row.  Fasten off.


Neck Shaping: **for this part, use fpdc as instructed for 12-18 months, and for 3-6 months, use fphdc instead.**

Attach Colour B to the centre back of the neckline.  Assuming you already worked a row of single crochet around the neckline, proceed to “Next Row”, otherwise, ch1 and work  row of sc all around the neckline.  Sl st to beg ch1.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc into nex sc, hdc into next*; repeat around, except when you reach the top corners of the front neckline, work 3hdc into that corner stitch.  Continue to work the rib, remembering to also work along the 1” spaces you left unsititched previously, and proceed in pattern until you reach the centre back.  Sl st to beg Ch3.

Next Row:  Ch3, *fpdc into next st, hdc into next*; repeat around, this time, work normally over those corner stitches, this will round” the edge.  Sl st to beg Ch3.  Fasten off.

You can, if you wish, add two buttons onto the back ribbing at the neckline to enable the wider part of the neckline to be fastened together.

Make sure all your ends are tidied up and woven in, and your sweater is complete!  You can leave it plain, as it is, or embellish it as you please.

©AG Handmades 2014



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