Monday, 28 July 2014

Oh so Easy Modular Tunic/Sweater

With the colder weather surely coming, I decided to make a tunic/sweater for a toddler grandchild of mine.  I have also had it in mind for a while to try to make something that is simple to make, and consists of just a few easy to make pieces sewn together.  Thus the modular tunic/sweater was born.



Five simple rectangular pieces, only two with a few rows of decreasing to make the "V" neck, and put together to make a warm and cosy sweater.   And they all fit together like this:



Pattern is written in US terms; a conversion chart is included at the end.


Oh So Easy Tunic Sweater

A very easy sweater/tunic – made from 5 easy shapes, sewn together.  Using only single crochet and half double crochet throughout, it is simple, and works up really quickly.

Materials1 skein of each colour used (Colour A (mine was Cream), and B (mine was Blue)), or 2 skeins of a single colour; 5mm hook; yarn needle

To fit  12-18 months;  SizeChest 20”-22”; Length from shoulder 15”-16”

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet; hdc = half double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; beg = beginning; sc2tog = single crochet 2 together

I have used two colours, you don’t have to – if it is easier, just do it in one solid colour.

Main body parts: Both identical, A & B


Back and sleeve long section: C;       Front Sleeve and V neck sections, D & E





Pattern:

For the main parts of the tunic/sweater (A & B) you will be working side to side.  It’s easier to do striping this way, as you only have to hold one colour at a time.

Parts A & B: (work both the same).

Row 1:  In Colour B, Foundation half double crochet 27 sts.  Alternatively, chain 28 sts, hdc into the third chain from the hook, and to the end.  Turn.  I usually use a foundation chain when working side to side and it gives a more elastic edge and doesn’t pull on one side.  If you work a normal chain, you might want to go up a hook size for making the 27 chain, then go back to a 5mm for the hdc.

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc in next st and each st across (27).

Change to Colour A.

Each row from here to the end of the piece will be the same as Row 2, except for colour changes, which are as follows:

Rows 3,4 and 5:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 6 and 7:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 8 and 9:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B.

Rows 10, 11, 12:  As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 13, 14, 15:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 16, 17, 18:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 19, 20, 21:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 22, 23: As Row 2; Change to Colour A

Rows 24, 25:  As Row 2; Change to Colour B

Rows 26, 27, 28:  As Row 2: Change to Colour A

Rows 29, 30:  As Row 2; Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part C:

Row 1:  Using Colour B, Foundation hdc 66; Alternatively, chain 67, hdc in third ch from hook, hdc to end (66).  Change to Colour A

Row 2: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 3 and 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 5, 6, 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8: Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Rows 9, 19, 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Rows 12 and 13:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Parts D and E are worked the same, but one will be flipped over so as to make the “V” of the neckline. 

Row 1:  In Colour B, foundation hdc 33 sts.  Alternatively chain 34, hdc in the third chain from hook, and to end.  Change to Colour A.  Turn. (33)

Row 2:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B.

Row 3:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end

Row 4:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A.

Row 5:  Ch2, hdc to end.

Row 6:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.

Row 7:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 8:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 9:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.

Rows 10 and 11:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 12:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.

Row 13:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour A

Row 14:  Ch2, hdc to end.  Change to Colour B

Row 15:  Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


You will now have 5 pieces.  Once you have weaved in all your ends, it’s a good idea at this point to either single crochet along the raw edges, or slip stitch along them.  This will give you a nice neat edge with stitches you match up to whip stitch together.


Assembly:

Fold Part C in half width-wise to find the centre point.  Place a stitch marker.  Fold Part A together lengthwise to find the centre point.  Match this with the centre point of Part C.  You should now have a T-shape. 

Working with RS facing together, whip stitch Parts A and C together, as neatly as you can, using only the back loops of each end stitch.  Match stitch for stitch to keep it all nice and even.

Fold Part B in half to find the mid point, place a marker.  Arrange parts D and E on top of this, so that the bottom part of the “V” meets with the centre point of part B.  Again, with right sides facing each other, whip stich along the edges to join Part B to the bottom edges of Parts D and E.  You should now have another T-shape, with a “V” in the centre.

Working again with Right Sides facing, place one T-shape on top of the other T-shape, hold in place with stitch markers if you need to, and whip stitch along the bottom edges of the sleeves.

Whip stitch along the top edges of the sleeves, joining it to the back section “C”, but this time, leave 1” unstitched.

Your garment should now look like this:




Side Seams:  Whip stitch the side seams together, from the armhole to the bottom, leaving 2” at the bottom of each side unsewn.  Fasten off.

Turn the garment so that the right side is now on the outside as it should be.


Edging and Sleeve Cuffs:

Bottom Edging:  With Colour A, attach yarn to centre back, ch1, sc to end, work 3sc in the corner, turn and work sc up the open part of the seam, working sc2tog into the 2 sts where the front and back meet (one stitch from the front and one from the back) to make a nice “V” there, sc down to the edge of the front, work 3sc into the corner st, sc across the bottom of the front, 3sc into the corner, sc up the opening, again working sc2tog in the 2 sts where front and back meet, sc down to the edge, 3sc in the corner, and back to where you began.  Sl st to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends invisibly.

V-Neck Edging:  Attach Colour A to the centre back of the neckline, ch1, sc along to where front and back meet, continue to sc into the front part, working 3sc into the corner at the top of the “V” at the front; sc down to the centre of the “V” and it is important here that when you reach the bottom, you work sc2tog into the last stitches either side of the “V”, so that you don’t have a “bump” and the “V” lays nice and flat.  Continue to sc up the other side of the “V”, working 3sc into the top corner, sc across to where front and back meet.  Continue to sc along the back, sl st to beg sc.  Ch1, repeat for a second round, making sure that you keep that “V” nice and flat at the front by working sc2tog there.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Sleeve Cuffs:

Fasten Colour A to the edge of the sleeve at the underarm, ch1, work one row of sc, change to Colour B when you slip stitch to beg sc. 

Row 2:  Ch1, sc all around, change to colour A on the last slip stitch.

Row 3: Ch1, sc all around, change to Colour B on the last slip stitch.

Row 4: ch1, sc all around, slip stitch to beg sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve cuff.

Make sure all your ends are tidied up and woven in, and Voila!  Your tunic sweater is complete!  You can leave it plain, as it is, or embellish it as you please.  

©AG Handmades 2014

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